CHADAR TREK – THE RARE TREK OF THE FROZEN RIVER

Chadar Trek is an extremely glamorous trek for the adrenaline junkies who enjoy going all in or all out. In recent years, trekking in Ladakh has gained tremendous popularity, and Chadar trek has become a favorite among Indians and travelers from other parts of the world. To me, the first time I did Chadar Trek was 8 years ago. This little canyon attracts twenty times more visitors than those days down the line. The trek is open for a small window of just 45 to 50 days, usually from 1st of January till 20th of February, depending upon the solid formation of Chadar–the ice carpet.

Also, Leh and ALTOA (All Ladakh Tour Operators Association) have now developed safe standards of operation. The trek will run safely with strict adherence to rules and regulations. Therefore, train your sights below for an on-ground experience of Chadar Trek. Find comprehensive details about the temperature, accommodation, the actual trek, food and some essential pro tips to execute the trek with finesse.

1. Arrival, acclimatization and permits–03 Day 
2. Actual trek–05 Days
3. Back in Leh and departure–01 Day

Day 01 – Arrival and rest

We arrived at Leh through an early morning flight from Delhi with a group of 8 people including me. We took a cab to the guest house from the airport on our own (as pick-up from the airport was not part of the package) and reached around 0830 hrs. Soon after we reached the guest house, we were asked to complete the registration process, which included an insurance form, 3 passport size photographs to be given along with a copy of the proof of identity and address (voter’s card, passport or Aadhar card) and sign the compensation form.

After a cup of tea and breakfast, some of us would like to rest as we had a slight headache, so we went to our quarters. We were all awakened for lunch by 1400 hrs. We ordered good vegetarian food on extra payment from the guest house as the food in Leh was not included in the package we chose. My partner and two other guys, along with nausea, had a severe headache and they decided not to have lunch. Warm water was given to them and they were asked to rest.

We had to take her to the hospital in the evening due to severe signs of hypoxia and AMS. The hospital was super cozy, clean and organized very well. The doctor admitted her for 2 HRS, oxygen was given, and some medicines were prescribed. Upon administration of oxygen, her health improved significantly, after which we returned to our guest house late at night.

Day 02 – Acclimatization walk

All of us were ready with no symptoms of AMS after waking up to a fresh morning. Post a sparkling breakfast meal, a long and comprehensive briefing was given that included important items such as:

1. How to acclimatize easily
2. Protection from elements
3. Demonstration of cloth layering
4. Principles of Leave No Trace policy
5. Women hygiene and safety
6. A brief idea of what to pack during the trek.

Then we were brought for an acclimatization walk to Shanti Stupa. He took some pictures there and went back to the market in Leh to have lunch and buy some more. Some of us even had to take pictures because they didn’t carry one, many went to buy some chocolates and others to get a pair of gumboots. Later, at the guest house, we decided to have our dinner and went to a sound sleep.

Day 03 – Permit day

We all started our walk to the TIC (Tourism Information Center) in Leh today morning after breakfast. We reached TIC by about 1000 hours. First, we had to show the insurance company our boarding pass (ASC 360) along with the 100% accurate and complete insurance form that we filled out on Day01. After having checked and entered all our details into their computer, they gave us a medical form that we had to fill in and certify by the doctor and medical team sitting in the adjacent room. We have to pay Rs. 200/-for the medical check-up once in the medical room.

You will first check your Pulse and level of oxygen and then, when you see the doctor, he will just politely ask a few questions about your previous history of health in a very pleasant way. If it’s all normal, you’re good to go! You will receive an “APPROVED” stamp on the form. Now with this form, on payment of Rs. 2000/-per person, you return to the insurance office where they issue an insurance card. It covers your medical emergency check-ups, emergency evacuation, and much more. Now with the insurance card and the list of all the people in your party, after paying the respective charges, you go to the ALTOA desk where they send you the following permits.

1. Wildlife
2. ALTOA fees
3. Environment fees

Boom! Yes! Now you have got your passport to Chadar trek.

Although we were the first group to be there for permits, it took us almost a full day to get everything cleared from there. We went to the market after receiving the permits and had an amazing dinner from a local community called Darjeeling Corner. We took a cab and got to the guest house after some small shopping like nuts, dried fruits and chocolates for the next day’s trek. There was an exhaustive briefing on how to get there and what to pack for tomorrow’s trek in a backpack. You can also read our blog about what a pack for Chadar Trek should be.

Actual Trek

Day 04 – Drive and trek to Tso Ma Poldar

We had our breakfast ready by 0700 hrs and by 0730 hrs. Once we came out, the vehicles were packed, 02 tempo travelers. We were all packed with all the ration and equipment needed while the vehicles were loaded. We left Leh around 0920 hrs after some photo sessions and briefing. Fast, smooth and beautiful was the drive to Chilling. The drive became challenging, treacherous and scarier yet incredible afterwards.

The road was wide enough to allow a tempo traveler to pass through the deep gorges with their tires just inside the road and part of the body. The adrenaline rush was built in by seeing the road just below and the white frozen Zanskar River. We reached Tilad Do by about noon. We had a quick, delicious hot lunch made with hot black tea by our cooks. It was then time for the first campsite to be packed and pushed. It was about 3 hours of practical walk and we reached the campsite by 1630 HRS.

The most notable part of the campsite was the location of the medical camp next to our camps. The ASC360 insurance company’s medical camp had two physicians and a couple of assistants ready 24* 7 for any medical assistance required. One of the doctors had to travel to the next campsite and, fortunately, he joined us until the next camp.

Talking about the weather and climate, after the sunset the temperature drops dramatically. The best remedy to curb the cold was the camp chef’s hot soup that helped us stay warm. The meal was just too delicious and satisfying. By about 2100 hours, we all went to sleep. Contrary to the harsh bone-chilling cold outside, it was pretty cozy inside the shelter. The sleeping bags were double-layered, and for extra warmth, we used a hot water bottle.

Day 05 – Trek from Tso Ma Poldar to Tibb

We began our trek to Tibb Cave after a delicious breakfast. It was a long icy walk and all of us were pretty comfortable walking over ice when we stopped for lunch break. The scenery was so beautiful that at Godspeed we often forgot that we were walking ice across a frozen raging river and that water still flows below. Here, a small error can be fatal.

Tibb campsite was relatively colder than Tso Ma Poldar, but we’ve been used to the cold so far. The small fire made by the porters created people who still felt cold.

Day 06 – Trek from Tibb to Narek Waterfall

Today’s trek is important as we will be witnessing the much-awaited site today, the frozen waterfall in Narek. The trek was a long one but the group’s enthusiasm and energy was very high. The only goal was to reach Narek with the frozen falls as a backdrop for the classic group photo. We saw a few young boys taking a dip in the water, the spot we stopped for lunch. We were tempted to do the same but we were prevented from doing anything like that by the initial briefing.

Once we saw the frozen falls, the excitement and energy in us went exponentially very high. In mere words, it’s so beautiful and indescribable. It appeared like someone was already pointing a magic wand at the waterfall and it was suddenly frozen.

Day 07 – Trek from Narek to Tibb

We started our walk back to the head of the road after taking some pictures of the falls. The walk back was feeling longer than it was before. We arrived a little later than our actual estimated time of arrival at our campsite.

Day 08 – Trek from Tibb to Shingra Koma and drive to Leh

Today, we started earlier than usual as we had to trek till the road head and drive back to civilization in Leh. It was a very emotional moment for everyone to leave the beautiful Chadar behind. We reached Leh by around 1830 hrs, and had our lunch at the road head in Shingra Koma.

Day 09 – Departure from Leh

We had a return flight to Delhi early in the morning. We also had the same return flight for the other two trekkers in our party, so we agreed to tag along with them until the airport. Finally, there came to an end an amazing memorable nine days. If you ask me what has changed from my previous visit and this one, I would say a lot has changed.

Pro tips

• Ensure you carry a well broke in waterproof hiking shoes
• Gumboots is a savior, but not an alternate for hiking boots
• Layering is the success mantra
• We do not recommend to use crampons. It needs a good experience to be used accurately. Alternatively, you can use easily available “microspikes”
• Trekking poles can be very helpful on the slippery ice
• Do not expect the same level of service as the life is harsh there. People serving you are also humans; they do their best to keep you safe and cosy but don’t expect luxury.
• It takes an initial two to three days to get adjusted to the prevailing cold conditions. Ensure the right clothing and layering and avoid heaters.